Tyne Cot Cemetery

Tyne Cot Cemetery has been on my bucket list for more than a decade—a low-key objective, patiently waiting for the opportune moment. Although I live less than two hours away, I never made the visit. I was nearby, however, this week, and I finally stepped through the famous stone arch into one of the most sobering locations in all of Belgium.

Standing among rows and rows of the identical, snowy headstones, I felt an intense